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eating out

MICHELIN STARRED INDULGENCE TO A DELICIOUS CRÊPE

Here are our favourite restaurants, in no particular order. I'm not listing their whole menu, just a few dishes that stand out.

Taverné Provencal - Gourdon

This is superb restaurant, with friendly and efficient service, a good value set menu, excellent a la carte and above all an outside terrace with an amazing view of the Cote d'Azur. If we have a day off this is the first place we think of going. The trout in almonds is outstanding, as is the filet steak with wild mushrooms. In fact it's all good. Very busy in the summer - get there early to soak up the view and make a proper long lunch of it.

Taverné Provencal in Gourdon - 10 minutes drive up the road from Le Foulon.

Barricade - Greolieres

Phillipe runs this great little restaurant and pizzeria. In the evenings the wood fired pizza oven is lit around 7.30 and Phillipe himself makes superb thin crust pizzas that literally flop over the side of his large plates. New for 2007 is a 2 course daily menu, which compliments a complete menu including pasta, steak, goats cheese, jambon cru, as well as a children's menus. Lots of indulgent ice cream desserts and squirty cream. A small outside terrace is open in the spring and summer and is a great place to catch your breath and take a spot of lunch after the walk up from Le Foulon.

Les Ormeaux - Cipieres

Run by a lovely couple, Les Ormeaux has a top spot in the village square of Cipieres. If you are a strong walker it's just 35 minutes walk through the woods, or take an hour to appreciate the view and catch your breath. Either way a great lunch awaits at the other end and you can feel you've earnt it by burning off a few calories. Speciliasing in stuffed provencal vegetables these accompany delicious lamb chops, melt in your mouth pavé de venison (when in season), tournedos of beef and the best chevre (goats cheese) from the small farm down the road. Delicious and good value.

Restaurant au Vieux Four - Gourdon

Probably the most creative of nearby restaurants the Vieux Four makes up for a lack of choice with taste, ingenuity and fresh quality. Usually offering around 3 starters, 3 mains and 3 desserts, the menu changes frequently and if you love all things gastronomic put your trust in the young owner chef - you won't regret it. His girlfriend runs an extremely efficient and smiley front of house, and the small wine list reflects the food. Open for lunch and weekend evenings.

Le Vieux Four epitomises the Provencal view on life -
this translates as 'open every-day (may be)'.

Auberge des Gorges Du Loup - Pont du Loup

At the mouth of the gorge this large restaurant and auberge has been operating since the boom years of Pont du Loup and is the only surviving hotel from the era. An old fashioned French restaurant (and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that) it has several set menus offering delicious fare and very good value. They do a superb guinea fowl, their salmon is top-notch whether as a starter or a main, and service is irreproachable. The owner is very friendly and very hands on - he seems to work all hours God sends him, which is perhaps why the main decoration about the place are effigies of Jesus himself! A summer terrace beneath ancient tall palm trees is a great high summer shady spot.

L'Auberge de Courmes - Courmes

Run the charismatic Jean-Jac the Auberge de Courmes provides great Provencal cuisine at reasonable prices. Jean-Jac speaks good English, does the cooking, most of the serving along with his girlfriend, and is most certainly a lover of life itself. When not working he's to be seen trundling around in his pre-war Renault, and lady's, get ready to be charmed. Highly recommended is a walk from the village up the Courmette Mountain and back down again for lunch. Make it to the top and you are rewarded with a Mediterranean panorama stretching as far away as Corsica.

Le Jarrerie - Bar sur Loup

Unassuming from the outside this restaurants character completely changes once you are through the door. Part of an old monastery the dining room has seen use in the perfume industry and as an olive press before being renovated as the imposing room you see today. Like a medieval banqueting hall there is a sense of occasion every time you eat here. The food is very rich, very French, and very good. Run by the charming owners and their friendly daughter the only criticism is a surly old waiter who would be better off being rude to tourists on the Champs Elysees than offending them in an otherwise very pleasant atmosphere. Surprisingly good value.

Crêperie des Artistes - Greolieres

Run by a bubbly young woman come for an indulgent sweet crêpe, or a tasty galette - these are crêpes made from buckwheat and filled with various different savoury options. A traditional mountain snack they include such fillings at ratatouille, smoked lardons and goats cheese, or salmon with creme fraiche. They also have a plat du jour such as a stew or steak frites. Proves a pancake isn't just for shrove Tuesday.

La Colombe d'Or - St Paul de Vence

One of the most famous restaurants on the Cote d'Azur this is also one of our favourites. Unpretentious in both atmosphere and cuisine you won't find everything covered with truffle or foie gras, you'll simply have a taste of real Provence. Made famous by the artists that once frequented the restaurant the sympathetic owner often took payment for their extensive tabs with the odd canvas or two. The walls are now adorned by Matisse, Braque, Picasso and many, many others. So it pays to be kind to penniless artists! Great people watching spot.

l'Ecole des Filles - Bar sur Loup

A converted grils school this restaurant is full of character. Inside the walls are adorned with group photos of children going back 100 years, and outside the playground is now a lovely shady spot for lunch. The varied Provencal cuisine bares no relation to school dinners whatsoever. Try their stuffed vegetables, duck in orange and if you fancy something a little simpler they even have a wood-fired pizza oven. Check out the decidely non-pc painting of a school girl cheekily showing her knickers - you can't miss it; it's about 6ft high on the side of the building. Only in France!

School dinners with a difference.

Auberge du Clos des Pins - Roquefort les Pins

Run by an English woman and her French husband the Auberge has an Australian chef and a distinctly International flavour to it's cuisine. Essentially French there are nonetheless refreshing twists on traditional dishes and some unique flavours that really make this restaurant stand out from the crowd. At 25 minutes drives it's a little further than you may want to drive of an evening, but we'd recommend you make the effort. Very good service.

Local Produce  
Les Ormeaux in Cipieres is 35 minutes walk by path and is a great lunch-spot.

 

 

 

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